Welcome to a thumbnail sketch of my educational visit to the Korean DMZ, the heavily militarized strip of land that divides North and South Korea…
Table of Contents
About Frank’s Photography
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Map of Korea
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Geography of the Korean DMZ
In order to understand the physical and historical division between the North and South it’s necessary to understand four terms:
- 38th Parallel
- Demarcation Line
- Demilitarized Zone
- Joint Security Area
The 38th Parallel
The 38th Parallel is the popular name given to latitude 38 degrees North that only very roughly defines the current border between North and South Korea. It was established at the Potsdam Conference in 1945 after the Japanese, who ruled the peninsula from 1910 to 1945, surrendered to the USSR and USA at the end or World War II. Intended as a temporary measure to divide the peninsula roughly in half (with a Soviet occupied North and American occupied South), the Cold War eventually led to the establishment a US-supported South Korean regime and Soviet Russian-supported North Korean regime.
The Demarcation Line
The Military Demarcation Line (MDL) was established by the UN in 1953 in the wake of the Korean War to define the official (and current) border between North and South Korea. The MDL, about 160 miles long, nominally follows the front line that existed at the end of the War, crossing the entire peninsula and hardly aligning with the 38th Parallel. Roughly speaking, the MDL defines the centerline of the Demilitarized Zone, described next.
The Demilitarized Zone
The Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a roughly 4 kilometer (2.5 mile) wide buffer zone (no man’s land) on both sides of the Military Demarcation Line. The MDL defines the center line, while the width of the buffer zone varies, depending on the specific geographic features nearby. It is noteworthy that there have since been various incidents in and around the DMZ, with military and civilian casualties on both sides.
The Joint Security Area
The Joint Security Area (JSA)–also called the Truce Village or Panmunjom–straddles the demarcation line on the western end of the Korean DMZ. It serves as a meeting point between the North and South and is the only place along the DMZ where North and South Korean forces stand face-to-face.
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The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ)
My very first glimpse of no man’s land from the bus…
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Dora Observation Post
Panoramic view of North Korea from the Dora Observation Post…
Zooming in a bit…
Notice the enormously tall flag pole to the right…
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Infiltration Tunnels
Since 1974, four infiltration tunnels have been discovered under the Korean DMZ, dug by North Korea in order to launch a surprise attack…
A portion of the Third Tunnel is now a well preserved and protected tourist site.
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Dorasan Station
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Imjingak
Imjingak is a park on the banks of the Imjin River–built in 1972 to console those on both sides separated from their families and friends.
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Joint Security Area (JSA)
The JSA straddles the demarcation line and serves as a meeting point between the North and South.
Given the possibility of sudden and serious border incidents, every visitor to the JSA must read and sign the declaration below in order to waive liability and promise to refrain from any provocative behavior…
The JSA is the only place along the Korean DMZ where North and South Korean forces stand face-to-face.
The North Korea soldier you see peeking out near the door at the top left of the stairs of the big gray building (playfully called “Bob” by the MPs) is the only North Korean you’ll normally see…
By the way, the blue hut to the left is where North and South officials meet on occasion to resolve disputes and security incidents.
The Bridge of No Return
The Bridge of No Return was used for prisoner exchanges at the end of the Korean Armistice in 1953. The name comes from the ultimatum given to POWs brought to the bridge for repatriation: Remain in the country of their captivity or cross the bridge to return to their homeland, never to be allowed to return.
Mine Field
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North Korean Money
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The Reunification Sculpture (Near the 3rd Tunnel)
What better way to close out our visit to the Korean DMZ than with a visual prayer for peace and reunification… not just for Korea, but for many divided places everywhere…
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Where to next? (Travel Stories)
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Thanks for a trip down memory lane, Frank. My last duty assignment while serving in the U.S. Navy was a joint assignment at Headquarters, Eighth US Army, Yongsan, Seoul (1991-1993).
We took a trip to the JSA at Panmunjom, but I don’t recall having to sign a waiver back then. They let us into the blue negotiation hut and told a story about the size of the flags on the table.
As I recall, when the room was first being used, each side came in with their nation’s flag and placed it on the table. For the next meeting, one country would come in with a slightly larger flag which, of course, wasn’t acceptable to the other. This went on until they actually had to negotiate and come to agreement on the size of the flags on the table before other earnest discussions could take place. (It echoes the need for North Korea to have the 160 meter/525 foot tall flag pole in your photo.)
Back then, we were allowed to walk around the table onto the North Korean side of the room. We couldn’t linger; just walk around.
With Seoul being only 25-30 miles from the DMZ, I also recall going on alert in Seoul when there were incidents at the border.
Aside from the brutal winters, I enjoyed my time in South Korea. Perhaps one day the DMZ can go the way of the Berlin Wall.
Thanks a million for enriching this post by adding your firsthand experiences, Dan. Great story about the flags on the table.
And thank you for your service.
Here’s hoping the DMZ goes the way of the Berlin wall.
All the best to you, healthwise and otherwise!
Maybe someday, yes. Trump and Putin won’t help make that a near reality, sadly, and South Korea’s current internal political chaos won’t help further the cause. My son was in the DMZ a few years ago and wasn’t altogether comfortable. Thanks for sharing your photos to bring it to life a bit.
Thanks a bunch for sharing your thoughts, Jane. Alas, I share your laments. BTW, I’d describe my experience there as not altogether confortable as well.
Hope is a better option than hopeless. Very interesting post.
Indeed, Diana. Here’s hoping.
So peaceful, for now. Not so, if the earth could speak. Thanks, Frank.
“Peaceful”, yes. What do you think mother earth would say?
A match.
Very nice bit of history. I especially liked how you wove hope throughout.
Thanks a bunch for the most kind words, Mister Bill. Maybe someday.