Trans-Siberian Railway: Places and Faces along the Grandest Rail Journey in the World
A visual celebration of the cities, villages, scenery, nature, history, food, drink, and people met on and along the Trans-Siberian Railway…
Among others, my goal here is to put a human face on the Russian people… who I found to be generous and good natured… and not the least bit bothered by the fact that I was an American. They, like me, just wanted to connect and share a slice of life as one human being to another.
Special Note from Frank: I took this month long journey in the Spring of 2015, just after Russia “”annexed” Crimea… and naturally asked several of the Russians I met how they felt about Putin and happenings in Ukraine. As expected, they all praised Putin. After all, who would dare to openly criticize the czar du jour? But several added that Crimea and Eastern Ukraine had large ethnically Russian populations who felt somewhat “homeless” and stuck on the wrong side of the border. I will leave it to those directly involved to share their true feelings and the implications of this situation regarding the “special three day military operation” in Ukraine.
So, brush up on your Cyrillic, score some rubles, and let’s go for it!
Through nine time zones and over 12,000 kilometers (7,200 miles)… from Moscow to Vladivosotok… with major stops in Ekaterinburg, Irkutsk… and side trips Listvyanka (Lake Baikal) and Mongolia (Ulan Bator and Karakorum).
Moscow Train Station (Start of the Trans-Siberian Railway)
Deciphering at least a wee bit of Cyrillic is an essential survival skill.
Ticket from Moscow to Yekaterinburg.
All aboard!
First Leg from Moscow to Ekaterinburg
The leg between Moscow and Yekaterinburg was by far the most comfortable of the whole journey. Things got more and more primitive and spartan as we went East into and through Siberia.
Delightful Ludmila, keeper of this fancy dining car.
A special moment with Sasha (who just happened to be a Russian sniper).
A quick flick of the throat and committed we are to draining a bottle of vodka (Yes, major hangover the next day).
A cozy, clean compartment for the first of many legs on different trains, others not quite as comfortable.
This one was clean and functional. Some others had no water or toilet paper, so prepare accordingly.
A nice assortment of goodies in the dining car.
Yekaterinburg
Girls just wanna have fun!
Having some fun at the Yekaterinburg Military Museum
Clever sidewalk advertisements can be found all over Russia.
Sergei and Ivan, two friendly, generous Russian soldiers who shared one of my sleeping compartments.
A fellowship of instant coffee with Sergei and Ivan (notice the American flag packaging).
Free enterprise… selling dried fish and caviar on the train platform.
Every time the train stopped, we were enthusiastically met by locals selling all kinds of home-made goodies.
Dried fruit, fresh bread, and kolbasa shared by my generous Russian bunk mate.
A Typical Timetable
Being able to decipher some Cyrillic and knowing the local time was crucial not missing the train…
… which I almost did in Khabarovsk when I went into town to score some ramen noodles and took a minute to pose with my dog and girlfriend.
A special moment with Lenara and mom on their way to Irkutsk.
Yummy layer cake I bought at a small town stop along the way.
Old school wood-fired Samovar.
It’s also nice to connect with some English speaking fellow travelers along the way.
Trying and failing to drink some undrinkable beer.
Friendly and helpful train attendant Vlad (I only experienced one unfriendly and unhelpful such attendant along the way).
5859 kilometers from Moscow
Listvyanka
Nikolai… my fun, friendly, and handy B&B host.
Super awesome Sergei and Frank’s ATM card (stay tuned for a crazy, stressful at the time, but ultimately victorious story.)
Lake Baikal
The deepest, oldest, and largest lake in the world, containing 23% of the all the fresh water on the planet…
Fresh fish soup for lunch, cooked right on the shore.
A vodka toast to the biggest lake in the world.
Sunset over Lake Baikal.
Irkutsk
Monument to a trio of famous Comedians.
Dinner with Valeria and Roman.
Lake Baikal Icebreaker.
Irkutsk Eternal Flame Memorial.
A special moment with Artur, the most famous bell ringer in the world!
An ear-piercing front row seat.
Border Crossing from Russia to Mongolia (and back again)…
My side trip to Mongolia will be covered in a separate post, but here are few images from the hours-long border crossing.
Ticket from Irkutsk to Ulan-Bator.
During our 5 hour layover on the Russian side of the border, a fellowship of international travelers (not to confused with “tourists”)… open-minded, adventurous, peace-making humans every one.
OMG, what a face! (How could I resist giving her some of my salami!)
In the midst of the no man’s land that separates Russia and Mongolia.
Vladivostok (East End of the Trans-Siberian Railway)
Vladivostok, which translates to ‘Lord of the East’ or ‘Ruler of the East’ is the Eastern terminus of the Trans-Siberian Railway…
Ticket from Irkutsk to Vladivostok… the longest-feeling leg of all… slow and spartan… I did not meet a single tourist for four days.
Vladivostok remains the largest Russian port and naval base on the Pacific Ocean.
A dose of totally expected Soviet realism.
Far from the drab and dreary place I expected, Vladivostok was modern, stunningly beautiful…
… and full of life…
Abandoned fort.
Inside of an old Russian submarine is among the last places I ever imagined I’d be.
Rockabilly buskers… for real!
A surprising bit of nature in the palm of my hand.
A special moment with Poseidon!
I was surprised to learn that Yul Brynner was born in Vladivostok!
I hope this post contributed in a small way to humanize the Russian people… and reminded us all not to judge a country by it’s self-serving “leaders”… but to see that people are people everywhere… most us decent… sent as a humble prayer for global solidarity and peace.
If you click on your name “Lori Pohlman”, you will notice that your get an error message. The solution is to update your Gravatar. I only mention this because you are likely missing out on visitors to your site because of this. All the best.
Thanks for this Frank and all the photo’s. I was smiling through most of it. What a fabulous experience. About 15 years ago I read a book (in a book club) about a trip on the Trans Siberian Railway, which made a lasting impression on me …. for some time. Can I remember the title or author now? No!
Thanks a bunch for the words of appreciation and for sharing all that, Margaret. I consider myself quite privileged to have the opportunity be there and connect with so many wonderful people along the way. Cheers!
Wonderful photos Frank. A reminder we all need today that national borders are imaginary lines inside the heads of those that seek to control and divide us. Humanity is one; making new friends in far flung places only confirms this.
It’s so great to hear from you, old friend. Thanks for the kind words of appreciation and especially for being a voice of reason and decency. Alas, we still have a long long way to go. So, what are you up to these days?
Thanks for asking Frank, I’m keeping busy raising my children Ben, 7 and Natasha, 4 with my wife Kim. Watching them grow continues to be the greatest adventure a ‘humble’ guy such as myself could want for. Hope you are keeping well old friend.
What a fabulous trip and lots of Vodka sampling by the looks of it!
This is a trip we wanted to do in 2015, also, but alas, our prime minister at the time wanted to “shirt-front” Putin, so the arguments were on. This meant visas for Australians were cut to 2 weeks, and then everything got too hard. I’d still love to do this trip from China to Moscow, as Mongolia has been on my bucket list for many years. But, I’d like to hop on/off and take 12 months to do this train tip.
Haha, I probably would never have mastered it ~ in fact, according to pattern I would afterward be remembered in that place as “the girl who blew up the dining room”! 😂
Frank, this is a wonderful insight into the way of life and people in Russia. I’m struck by how you engage with folk as you travel – and love that you share these experiences through your photography. That trip looks fascinating.
Thanks a million for the most kind words of appreciation, Kath. My most precious travel memories have always been about connecting with and learning from so many wonderful, inspiring people along the way. Cheers!
Thank you for sharing these wonderful photos. What an amazing experience you’ve had. So many beautiful faces.
Thanks for checking in, Lori and for the kind word of appreciation. All the best to you in writing, travels, and life.
(Heads up: You avatar link is out of date)
I am not sure what my avatar link is!😹 But I will try to figure it out. Thank you!
If you click on your name “Lori Pohlman”, you will notice that your get an error message. The solution is to update your Gravatar. I only mention this because you are likely missing out on visitors to your site because of this. All the best.
Thank you so much, Frank!
Thanks for this Frank and all the photo’s. I was smiling through most of it. What a fabulous experience. About 15 years ago I read a book (in a book club) about a trip on the Trans Siberian Railway, which made a lasting impression on me …. for some time. Can I remember the title or author now? No!
Thanks a bunch for the words of appreciation and for sharing all that, Margaret. I consider myself quite privileged to have the opportunity be there and connect with so many wonderful people along the way. Cheers!
Wonderful photos Frank. A reminder we all need today that national borders are imaginary lines inside the heads of those that seek to control and divide us. Humanity is one; making new friends in far flung places only confirms this.
It’s so great to hear from you, old friend. Thanks for the kind words of appreciation and especially for being a voice of reason and decency. Alas, we still have a long long way to go. So, what are you up to these days?
Thanks for asking Frank, I’m keeping busy raising my children Ben, 7 and Natasha, 4 with my wife Kim. Watching them grow continues to be the greatest adventure a ‘humble’ guy such as myself could want for. Hope you are keeping well old friend.
Sounds like a full and meaningful life, man. All the best to you and yours!
What a fabulous trip and lots of Vodka sampling by the looks of it!
This is a trip we wanted to do in 2015, also, but alas, our prime minister at the time wanted to “shirt-front” Putin, so the arguments were on. This meant visas for Australians were cut to 2 weeks, and then everything got too hard. I’d still love to do this trip from China to Moscow, as Mongolia has been on my bucket list for many years. But, I’d like to hop on/off and take 12 months to do this train tip.
Here’s hoping that someday world peace breaks out and you will make it so!
What a wonderful experience, Frank. I would loved to have done that train route. Thanks for the virtual tour.
Thanks for joining me virtually, Jane. I consider myself quite fortunate to have had the time and means to do it when I did. All the best.
I’ve always wanted to know what a Samovar looks like ~ they’re surprisingly complex!
My initial reaction, too! In fact, it took me a while to learn how to use the darn thing!!!
Haha, I probably would never have mastered it ~ in fact, according to pattern I would afterward be remembered in that place as “the girl who blew up the dining room”! 😂
Frank, this is a wonderful insight into the way of life and people in Russia. I’m struck by how you engage with folk as you travel – and love that you share these experiences through your photography. That trip looks fascinating.
Thanks a million for the most kind words of appreciation, Kath. My most precious travel memories have always been about connecting with and learning from so many wonderful, inspiring people along the way. Cheers!