A Taste of Buenos Aires: Seductive, Gritty Birthplace of the Tango

A visual exposition of Argentina’s cosmopolitan capital—vibrant, passionate, flavorful, yet shadowed by truths it doesn’t always show…

Vamos! (let’s go!)

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About Frank’s Photography

(Click image to learn more)

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Where is Buenos Aires, Argentina?

Buenos Aires translates to “Good Airs” or “Fair Winds” in Spanish, reflecting the favorable conditions early Spanish colonists encountered there.

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Argentine Visa Stamps

argentine visa stamps

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Argentine Pesos & American Dollars

Because the official currency, the Argentine Peso, is perpetually declining in value, Argentines try to accumulate American Dollars whenever they can. While these so-called blue dollars are officially illegal, dollars were freely and openly accepted everywhere I went. And, because the dollar is preferred over the unstable Peso, your change will always come in pesos.

argentine pesos and american dollars

When I visited in February 2014, the official exchange rate was around 8 pesos per dollar, but you could get 13 for 1 on the street (touts are everywhere whispering “cambio, cambio”) and 10 for 1 at most establishments. Some restaurants advertised 11 for 1 if you used a crisp $100 bill. It is not clear to me if spending dollars helps or hurts the people there. I suppose that, in the short-term, it helps those who get dollars and hurts those who don’t… but in the long term the answer is not so clear.

pesos to us dollars exchange rate

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The People (La Gente)

The city’s inhabitants are known as Porteños (“people of the port”), a nod to the massive wave of European immigrants who arrived by boat in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. And because more than half of Porteños have some degree of Italian ancestry, Italian is widely spoken, Italian cuisine is popular and delicious, and Porteños are more like outgoing Italians than reserved Peninsulares from Spain.

buenos aires mcdonalds

Plaze de Mayo & The Pink Palace

plaza de mayo and the pink palace

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Remembering The Falklands (Malvinas) War

While there are few highly visible signs of antagonism towards the British and her allies because of that 1982 conflict, most Argentines care infinitely more about rampant poverty at home and corruption in their own government.

falklands malvinas political messages

falklands malvinas political messages

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The Opera House

Buenos Aires Opera House Teatro Colón interior
Take a guided tour of the Opera House (Teatro Colón). Hint: The best parts have nothing to do with music!

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The Obelisk

Buenos Aires obelisk

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Buenos Aires Food & Drink

chefs preparing empanads

empanadas and a mug of ice cold beer
A casual, delicious, and inexpensive lunch of empanadas y cerveza.
salad and red wine
Ensalada y vino tinto.

chorizo

Cafe Tortoni
Cafe Tortoni
Cafe Tortoni bilingual menu
Bilingual (Italian & Spanish) Menu
Franco y Franco.

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Buenos Aires Street Scenes

Given Argentina’s painful history of corruption and authoritarianism, anti-authority graffiti is easy to find.
four pigeons posing for the camera

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Signs of Climate Change

Notice the enormous number of window-installed air conditioners in the high rises, severely taxing the energy infrastructure. This is relatively recent development as the climate has become significantly hotter over the last few decades, allegedly due to unchecked deforestation in the Amazon.

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Glimpses of the Filthy Rich & Utterly Destitute

The luxury high rise apartments in the posh Puerto Madero neighborhood, considered to be monuments to the legendary greed and corruption of the Argentine oligarchy.
…are literally just blocks away from the slums in the impoverished Retiro neighborhood.
One can sometimes see extreme wealth and extreme poverty in the very same frame. (I still feel torn about taking and sharing this image, but decided to err on the side of telling the truth about the injustice and insanity of it all.)

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La Recoleta Cemetery

La Recoleta Cemetery, a fascinating study in the subjects of mortality, notoriety, and wealth.

La Recoleta

La Recoleta and Sileo hotel

La Recoleta coffins

le Recoleta crypt of Eva Perón
The final resting place of Eva Perón.

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La Boca Neighborhood

Saunter around the vibrant, gritty La Boca neighborhood and see what you discover…

el nuevo almacen

la boca mural of tango dancers

two old dogs resting

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Tango Music & Dance

tango dance steps in the sidewalk

tango music and dance performance
No visit to Buenos Aires would be complete without experiencing the raw sensual energy of tango music and dance performed live.

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5 thoughts on “A Taste of Buenos Aires: Seductive, Gritty Birthplace of the Tango”

    1. Oh, Ana. It’s beyond heartbreaking, nauseating, and infuriating to see what “we” allow to happen in the US. BTW, it’s one reason why I regularly volunteer at a homeless shelter here in ABQ… where I learn a new lesson each time.. especially on the immense power of trauma and one’s environment and circumstances to define and constrain one’s life prospects. I want to share some of these lessons but am struggling with how to do so honestly and constructively without jeopardizing my priviledged access and abiliy to do my work there. Any thoughts? Big hug to you.

      1. It comes to me that, being you, you would be able to create a big self-esteem boost in patrons of the establishment by asking the ones you want to feature for an actual interview, in which they would tell you the same things that got you interested (nothing but good for them to see your sympathetic face about them more than once), then they’d be able to see themselves afterward in a beautiful light when you show them the post you make of it. Not to belittle hunger, cold and fear, but the feeling that one is going through it all invisibly is some of the worst of the homeless experience. As you show them (and their friends ~ whopping street cred!), you can even affirm that now their lives are benefitting others, who are learning compassion from their life stories. For me, even beyond the invisibility and humiliation, the thought that no benefit came to orhers from my existence was the worst. If you let the folks at the shelter in on what you’re doing ~ even feature their lives and motivations for working there in some pf your posts ~ you’ll have everybody on the same court, on the same team! That alone would be a significant accomplishment.

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