A celebration in words and images of El Camino de Santiago… a one-of-a-kind pilgrimage and among the most transformational experiences in my entire life…
Welcome to one man’s humble attempt to convey the privilege of walking the Camino de Santiago… in all of its wondrous dimensions: the beautiful, arduous, fun, delicious, tragic, joyous, timeless, and sublime… presented with profound gratitude to my fellow pilgrims and the dedicated hospitaleros who keep the Camino alive… and sent as a prayer for global solidarity and peace.
The allure of the Camino–thanks largely to some PBS travel shows and testimonies from the pilgrims who did it–became irresistible… compelled to do so in order to prove I was still vital at the age of fifty-two, to reflect deeply on the meaning and direction of my life, to see what the Camino was all about, and to welcome anything else that might come my way.
I did the classic route called the Camino Frances: five hundred miles from Saint Jean Pied-du-Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain in the Spring of 2013.
The quaint hamlet of Saint Jean Pied du Port in Southwestern France is the traditional starting point for the Camino Francés.
Arrival there is quite an exciting time… as you meet fellow pilgrims from all around the world… and where the first order of business is to check in at the pilgrim’s office, which is staffed by a small crew of delightful and enthusiastic lady volunteers who will get your Camino off on the right foot…
There you can get your pilgrim’s passport (credencial), the traditional scallop shell, and a weather report for the next day…
Each pilgrim is expected to carry a passport (credencial) which is stamped and dated each time they check into an Albergue. Since I received my blank credencial in Saint Jean Pied-du-Port, it is written in French.
Regarding the Weather
Day one on the Camino Francés requires a traverse of the Pyrenees… and the mountain weather is not to be taken lightly.
Because a big snowfall was forecast for the next day, the ladies were adamant that we take the low road. The seriousness of their tone and body language left us no doubt that the high road was off limits. You can see the big red Xs emphatically drawn by them on the map below. Incidentally, we later heard that someone had just recently died of hypothermia on the high road, apparently because they ignored the advice.
After packing my credencial and scallop shell, I made a donation, then joined some new friends for a quick dinner at the only open (but cozy and welcoming) restaurant in town that took great pride in feeding peregrinos.
Except for the boots on my feet and clothes on my back, my possessions for 6 weeks on the Camino.
My very first steps on the Camino in Saint Jean Pied du Port
Crossing the Pyrenees
The snow got deeper and air got colder as we ascended, making for a long, hard, but memorable and joyous day that made for lots of new friends as we cheered each other on!
Every city and most towns have at least one Albergue. Some are privately-owned, some are run by the local municipality, some secular, and some religious. The religious Albergues have strict lights out policies. The secular Albergues are a bit more laid back.
Very first night with lots of new friends at the Roncevalles Alburque
At the famous 790k milestone
A very special moment as two cyclists wish us our first “Buen Camino!”
Most albergues have a community kitchen where you can cook your own supper. Here’s Tae-Lim Kim, one of my new Korean friends, showing us how it’s done…
An albergue (pronounced al-BER-gay) is a hostel that is reserved only for pilgrims who are walking the Camino de Santiago. Upon arrival, each exhausted, dirty, and hungry pilgrim can find a simple bunk bed, usually a hot (but sometimes cold) shower, possibly a clothes washer and dryer, and a simple kitchen. There is no need to book in advance. Most do not accept reservations anyway (beds are available on a first-come, first-served basis). A pilgrim’s passport is required to stay in an Albergue. Upon arrival, the hospitalero will check and stamp your credencial (and sometimes also check your international passport!). Pilgrims are normally allowed to stay for one night only.
Burgos
Some albergues have communal dinners: “The dinner of today is thanks to the donation of yesterday.“
Bidding farewell to my first Camino family in Burgos (simply because my legs could go no more and needed two weeks rest)
For lunch or dinner, restaurants all along the Camino have a “Menu del Dia” or “Pilgrim’s Menu”. And the food all along the Camino is generally fantastic… and the price is right (price-gouging of pilgrims is unheard of). Expect to pay 9 to 12 Euros for a salad, main course, dessert, and all the bread and wine you can eat and drink.
Some of my second Camino family the very moment before introducing myself.
Always remove your boots when you come through the front door… Your feet and your fellow pilgrims will be glad that you did. A trick for drying wet boots: Stuff them with newspaper!
Connecting with engineer and hospitalero Javi
Some slow cooked pork (cerdo) in delicious gravy with fritos.
With Hospitalero Keith from the UK who makes keeping the Camino alive a labor of love.
This monument, near Cruz de Ferro, marks a mass grave, in remembrance of thousands murdered by Franco during the Spanish Civil War. Unknown numbers of such graves still exist in Spain. Many remain undiscovered or unmarked as they remain quite controversial even today.
A fellowship of mussels with awesome person Lidia from Romania
It is quite surreal to stand before the Cathedral in person, after seeing it in so many photographs and travel shows over the years. Naturally, there is a predictable feeling of accomplishment (and relief) upon arrival in Santiago, having survived hundreds of miles of physical and psychological pain that only a fractional percent of human beings have experienced and can possibly understand.
Upon arrival in Santiago, take your passport to the Pilgrim’s Office in order to receive your final stamp… and receive your “Compostela” at the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago de Compostela, certifying that you have met the requirements for a proper pilgrimage.
Donating my shoes to the universe (If they could only talk!)
Thanks to some actionable intelligence we received on the Camino grapevine, we were able to accelerate our pace over the final five days of our trek in order to arrive in time to attend mass and witness the swinging of the giant incense burner.
But my arrival in Santiago also felt anti-climactic and bittersweet. As the saying goes, it’s the journey, not the destination that counts… and that wondrous journey (and my intimate connection with so many wonderful people) was coming to a close.
And so, it was decided. We cannot yet say goodbye. We must go to Finisterre (by bus) to celebrate!
Finisterre (literally “End of the World”) was the perfect place to end my Camino.
The famous zero milestone
The colorful harbor, light house, crashing waves, sea gulls, and sea breeze were the perfect backdrop for celebrating life with some of my beautiful Camino family: Kent, Brianna, Lucas, Elizabeth, Lidia, Fiach, MaryJo, and Birgit.
Bidding farewell to my second Camino family.
Reflections
The Camino de Santiago is so much more than just a long and painful walk… and so much more than an epic walking meditation.
It’s a unique and privileged opportunity to discover oneself–unburdened by the distractions and trappings of everyday life.
It’s a great crossroads–where people of goodwill from all around the world and every walk of life are building bridges of peace and understanding each and every day.
It’s a place of ineffable timelessness–where clocks and calendars lose their grip, and where a lifetime can be lived in a single day–and sometimes in a single moment.
It’s a great equalizer–where, no matter your gender, age, nationality, faith, or station in life you are stripped bare of your wealth, titles, possessions, and prior accomplishments.
It would be a gross understatement to say that the Camino de Santiago exceeded my expectations. In the words of wise young Irishman I met along the way…
“I came to the Camino to find myself… but I discovered so much more.” — Fiach Walker
I see the Camino as a grand University of life–inviting everyone to be both student and teacher.
Allow me to share some of the priceless lessons I learned at that university:
There is no such thing as THE Camino de Santiago. Everyone’s Camino is unique–just as we walk different paths in life.
No man is an island. Your identity and significance as a human being is your significance to others and your significance with others.
True community is based on sharing what we have with each other such that giving and receiving, giver and receiver, become one.
You do not need much, materially, in order to be happy.
Finding peace, meaning, and freedom is largely the courage to leave behind all those things that you no longer need.
Angels are everywhere–humble, generous, and unassuming. If you do not see them, you may be looking in the wrong places.
Just because someone has a smile on their face does not mean that their life is easy.
Happiness is largely the humility to say YES to “small” things that matter and the courage to say NO to “big” things that don’t.
Gratitude should be the first thing that crosses your mind and heart as you rise to each and every day.
A journey of a thousand miles is accomplished by one simple commitment–the willingness to take just one more step. And no matter how hard it is, you can almost always take one more step.
Each and every one of us is eminently worthy of being a source of peace and healing.
People and LOVE are always the most important things in life, period.
Looking out into the limitless horizon of the Atlantic, I could not help but reflect deeply on the meaning and direction of my life–and to realize that the end of my Camino was not an end at all, but a new beginning.
Closing Thoughts
All of the words and pictures in the world could never capture the true essence of the Camino de Santiago. In fact, saying anything at all risks diminishing the experience altogether. Despite my best attempts to do so, my Camino experience is ultimately non-transferrable. Each person must walk and discover their own way.
That said, I encourage you to walk the Camino, trusting that any amount of time or distance traveled there, be it six weeks or six days, will be a unique privilege and transformational experience to cherish for a lifetime.
Physically and emotionally, your Camino will be much harder than you expect, but infinitely more enchanting, enlightening, and inspiring than you ever dreamed possible. The Camino’s arms are wide open, ready to embrace and transform anyone willing to take that very first step.
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21 thoughts on “Camino de Santiago”
That…was fantastic. I was mesmerized. What a truly wonderful post. I was actually sorry when it was over. Thank you for this. It was a beautiful thing and I loved seeing the animals, the white dog, amid the white sheep, like one of these things is not like the others, moment. LOL I really can’t explain how wonderful this was. Thank you.
Wow! Your lovely lovely loveliest words of appreciation made my day, Gigi. It’s so nice to know that words sometimes fail us in a GOOD way. All the best to you in writing and life!
PS. You may have noticed me poking around your blog, where I appreciate your commitment to courage, honesty, clarity, and brevity. Cheers!
Thank you for this. It has been the best thing I’ve read and looked at in at least a week, and true words are spoken before mine-it is almost as if I’m following right along with you all. It’s a magnificent post.
Wow… Thank YOU for the most kind words of appreciation, Ali. The depth of your resonance and generosity of spirit made my whole week! All the best to you.
This was such a great overview of your experiences along the Camino de Santiago, Frank! Your photos added extra layers of meaning to the places and the people who have passed through them over time! I know that the experience for everyone who has walked it, has been so life-changing! Congratulations on accepting the calling, and completing the journey!
Wow, amazing post! What an incredible experience, and the photos you took along the way were fantastic. This was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity and truly a blessing. Thank you for sharing it with us.
Thank you for the detailed, pictured documentary of the Camino. It must have been an experience of a lifetime!
I know two ladies who walked the Camino as well, one from Portugal though, but they reported similar experiences, especially the insight about what is important and what isn’t. People and love, yes!
Frank… What a wonderful journey you took me on… I have seen this walk done in a series on English TV when a group of celebrities took on the challenge. Though it was in the warmer months of the season…
And I know from that series the extreme challenges of that walk take… And the book that gets stamped at certain points along the way…
I loved those lessons learned upon your journey too.. When it comes down to it. People are kind, generous, and just wishing to be Free Spirits ..
Your words here speak volumes… And I wish more could find the meaning within them Frank
” True community is based on sharing what we have with each other such that giving and receiving, giver and receiver, become one. “….
In the end that is what really counts…. We are all of us one as we travel this Human experience… And there are many Angels out there ready to hold out a helping hand. It is a pity that so many are afraid to trust that hand of friendship to meet in the middle ground to find what it is to be human, with love and compassion, but to find ourselves in the process..
Loved spending time scrolling through your many wonderful images Frank along with the many people you met and meals you took together…
Stay Blessed.. <3 🙏💖
Wow, Sue. Blown away by the precious time and energy you invested in your most kind words of appreciation and your resonance with the utterly simple lessons contained here.
I really like your sentiment: “People are kind, generous, and just wishing to be Free Spirits.” Alas, as you also say, this requires us to reach out despite our fears and discover what is most personal may also be most universal.
Oh my goodness, what a truly wonderful summary of your time on the Camino. My husband, sons, and daughter-in-law made that life-changing trip about 10 years before you. They would agree with everything you say.
That…was fantastic. I was mesmerized. What a truly wonderful post. I was actually sorry when it was over. Thank you for this. It was a beautiful thing and I loved seeing the animals, the white dog, amid the white sheep, like one of these things is not like the others, moment. LOL I really can’t explain how wonderful this was. Thank you.
Wow! Your lovely lovely loveliest words of appreciation made my day, Gigi. It’s so nice to know that words sometimes fail us in a GOOD way. All the best to you in writing and life!
PS. You may have noticed me poking around your blog, where I appreciate your commitment to courage, honesty, clarity, and brevity. Cheers!
Thank you for this. It has been the best thing I’ve read and looked at in at least a week, and true words are spoken before mine-it is almost as if I’m following right along with you all. It’s a magnificent post.
Wow… Thank YOU for the most kind words of appreciation, Ali. The depth of your resonance and generosity of spirit made my whole week! All the best to you.
This was such a great overview of your experiences along the Camino de Santiago, Frank! Your photos added extra layers of meaning to the places and the people who have passed through them over time! I know that the experience for everyone who has walked it, has been so life-changing! Congratulations on accepting the calling, and completing the journey!
Deep gratitude, Anita, for your most beautifully expressed words of appreciation and for celebrating with me. All the best.
Wow, amazing post! What an incredible experience, and the photos you took along the way were fantastic. This was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity and truly a blessing. Thank you for sharing it with us.
Thanks for the most kind words of appreciation, Edward. A blessing indeed! It is my pleasure and privilege to share it.
Thank you for the detailed, pictured documentary of the Camino. It must have been an experience of a lifetime!
I know two ladies who walked the Camino as well, one from Portugal though, but they reported similar experiences, especially the insight about what is important and what isn’t. People and love, yes!
Thanks so much for the words of appreciation and for adding your thoughts, Stella.
PEOPLE and LOVE, yes!!!
Frank… What a wonderful journey you took me on… I have seen this walk done in a series on English TV when a group of celebrities took on the challenge. Though it was in the warmer months of the season…
And I know from that series the extreme challenges of that walk take… And the book that gets stamped at certain points along the way…
I loved those lessons learned upon your journey too.. When it comes down to it. People are kind, generous, and just wishing to be Free Spirits ..
Your words here speak volumes… And I wish more could find the meaning within them Frank
” True community is based on sharing what we have with each other such that giving and receiving, giver and receiver, become one. “….
In the end that is what really counts…. We are all of us one as we travel this Human experience… And there are many Angels out there ready to hold out a helping hand. It is a pity that so many are afraid to trust that hand of friendship to meet in the middle ground to find what it is to be human, with love and compassion, but to find ourselves in the process..
Loved spending time scrolling through your many wonderful images Frank along with the many people you met and meals you took together…
Stay Blessed.. <3 🙏💖
Wow, Sue. Blown away by the precious time and energy you invested in your most kind words of appreciation and your resonance with the utterly simple lessons contained here.
I really like your sentiment: “People are kind, generous, and just wishing to be Free Spirits.” Alas, as you also say, this requires us to reach out despite our fears and discover what is most personal may also be most universal.
Buen Camino!!!
May we all discover that Good road as we discover ourselves through love and compassion ❤️
Hear, hear!
As you say, I have no words but thank you.
Profound gratitude indeed, old friend!
Beautifully written, beautifully photographed ~ I feel as though I was there with you! Wonderful job.
Thanks so much for the words of appreciation, Ana, and for letting me know that one of my missions was accomplished, Ana.
Buen Camino!
Oh my goodness, what a truly wonderful summary of your time on the Camino. My husband, sons, and daughter-in-law made that life-changing trip about 10 years before you. They would agree with everything you say.
Thanks a bunch for the most kind words of appreciation, Jane, and for adding your family connection. Sending a hearty “Buen Camino!” to all.