Lively, vibrant, and gritty… rich with history, literature, music, street life, and night life… and loaded with colorful characters like nowhere else in the world.
747 Bus from the Airport to Downtown
Easy to remember number for double-decker airport bus to downtown: 747!
O’Connell Street
Post Office, Jim Larkin, Millennium Spire on O’Connell Street
Bullet scars on the post office (from the 1916 uprising)
Burger King
Dublin Spire
Ireland gets bit less Catholic every day
Bronze tribute to James Joyce, novelist & poet known for his work “Ulysses”
Double decker bus
Favorite Bars
Cassidy’s
The Long Hall Exterior
My favorite stool and a Guinness at the Long Hall
The Hairy Lemon
Hard Cider at the Library. Sláinte Mhaith!
Temple Bar
A fun mix of trad, pop, and rock at Murray’s
Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, William Butler Yeats (Fibber Magee’s)
A handsome, friendly young lad, The International Bar
Football fans, Fibber Magee’s
consciousconcert.ie
Cute doggie
Empty Kegs on a Sunday morning
Kilmainham Gaol
The 1916 Proclamation (worth taking a few minutes to read)
Pay your respects the the 1916 Freedom Fighters at Kilmainham Gaol.
The only efficient and flexible way to discover the real Emerald Isle is by car. But be advised: While driving in Ireland is a lot of fun, it’s not for the absent-minded or faint of heart. Let’s go!
While driving on the “wrong” side of the road is a bit nerve-wracking at first, you will eventually acclimate and come to really enjoy it.
While a few modern highways connect the big cities at high speed, most of the main roads are quite narrow and slow going.
It will typically take you a lot longer than you think to get where you are going.
Make sure you get the units right!
Keep your wits about you at all times. If you feel the least bit tired, pull over and take a break until you can really concentrate on what you are doing. One moment of inattention could be disastrous.
Many road signs are bilingual (Gaelic and English), while in some areas, known as Gaeltachts, the signs are Gaelic only.
Most roads are extremely narrow, with lots of ups, downs, twists, and turns… and extremely limited visibility. The extents and trajectory of almost every road is defined by impenetrable hedge rows and stone walls that have stood for centuries.
Roughly $6 per gallon
Most of the main roads go straight through town, an invitation to slow down, take a break, and enjoy the local color.
A relaxing short cut between Killimer and Tarbert!
If you ever find yourself near Dingle, driving the scenic Conor Pass is not for the faint of heart, but is quite a thrill.
If you don’t know that “An Daingean” refers to the town of Dingle, you just might go the wrong way!
Single lane bridges are quite common and shoulders in case of emergency are a rarity.
Be advised that the units change if you venture into Northern Ireland which uses the British system.
North, South, East, and West–the Emerald Isle is one of the most photogenic places in all the world… uniquely blessed with a natural beauty and history that is quintessentially Irish… not to mention all vibrant man-made colors that will delight you along the way. Let’s go!
Kilmacduagh, literally “church of Duagh’s son”, is a fascinating monastic site near Gort that dates to the establishment of an abbey there in the seventh century. Consisting of several church ruins, a leaning round tower, cemetery, and pastureland this extraordinary place is at once haunting and serenely beautiful.
Inside the Church at Kilmacduagh: “Pray for the soul of James Mulane and his wife Sarah Laughnane, who made this tomb for them & their reposter 1709”.
A magic moment of light just as the sun is setting.
The atmosphere at dusk is other-worldly… summoning the memories of all those who have lived and died here since ancient times.
Frank knows that the Giant’s Causeway is in Northern Ireland. No matter your politics and allegiances, this geological marvel is geographically part of the island of Ireland, presented here as nothing more and nothing less.
Blessed with an uncommonly perfect weather day, I had the pleasure and privilege of summiting Carrauntoohil, the centerpiece of the MacGillicuddy’s Reeks, and at 3,400 feet elevation, the highest peak in Ireland.
The route where shadow meets sunlight is the aptly named devil’s staircase.
Looking North from the saddle going up.
For a moment, the highest man in Ireland!
A heart stone for Agnes O’Sullivan
Back down the treacherous Devil’s Staircase (I have the scars to prove it!)
Nothing anywhere in the whole world compares to a night of the craic and traditional (trad) live music in an authentic Irish pub. But there is plenty of rock and Jazz, too… as well as plenty of busking and other surprises as well… Sláinte mhaith!
The Reel, Donegal
Murray’s, Dublin
McGann’s, Doolin
Big Telly Bernie Poster…
Savage performance by Big Telly Bernie (inside a trailer in Dingle)
Fabulous buskers on Grafton Street, Dublin
County Donegal?
Hurdy Gurdy man, Galway
Session Americana at Dolan’s, Limerick
Swinging Jazz Hargadon Brothers, Sligo
The fabulous Walkeleles! (Dublin)
Singing for a worthy cause on Grafton Street, Dublin
Another round of Guinness and the best seats in the house at Matt Molloy’s, Westport
A privileged evening of gut-busting humor and heart-warming sing-alongs with the legendary troubadour and storyteller Mick Lavelle at Matt Molloy’s, Westport
If you go hungry in Ireland, it’s your own damned fault!
If you stay at any B&B in Ireland, breakfast is a huge event. The traditional “full fry” might include any or all of the following: eggs, ham, sausage, mushrooms, tomatoes, black pudding, white pudding, cereal, porridge, toast, butter, jam, yogurt, fruit, juice, coffee, or tea. I would not want to turn this start of the day into a lifestyle, but I recommend experiencing this hearty feast at least once in your lifetime. Tip: You will not insult your hosts if you opt for less than the full fry, but get your request in before they start cooking or you just might get more meat than you can handle!
An uncommon, healthier alternative to the full fry.
Bangers and mash.
Shepherd’s pie
Adult beverages are also a big part of Irish culture, but Guinness is not the only game in town. Enjoy a top-notch Irish whiskey or hard cider over ice
Fish and chips
…and finish the evening with a toast of Irish Coffee for dessert! Sláinte!
Surprise!
Finally, don’t miss the chance to enjoy the festive atmosphere, period food and drink, and lively entertainment at a Medieval Banquet (Dunguaire Castle)… touristy to be sure, but you’ll have a blast and be glad you did!
Paying my respects at just a few of the memorials and cemeteries where so many precious souls were laid to rest during the Great Irish Famine…. and a painful glimpse into the politics, attitudes, and “justice” of the time…
The most meaningful travel experiences are always about connecting with people. And Ireland has no shortage of gorgeous, colorful, and engaging characters to brighten your day…
A special moment with Máire Daly (Click Image Above for the Story!)
A few glimpses into Irish humor and typical goings on…
An interesting glimpse into social norms and local law and order.
A lovely hand-written gift from a delightful lady named Pat… presented to me at a table full of “strangers” who shared a delightful evening of Irish Stew, Guinness, and live trad at McGann’s Pub in Doolin.
Intimate access to four of my favorite Bronze Age stone circles on the Emerald Isle, each with its own unique charm…
I can’t explain why, but I feel deeply drawn to such ancient places in a way that is nothing short of mystical, inviting one to linger and reflect on one’s existence and how one’s life fits into the eternal sweep of time.
Beltany Stone Circle
near Raphoe, County Donegal
Drombeg Stone Circle
near Glandore, County Cork
Uragh Stone Circle
near Gleninchaquin Park, County Kerry
Grange Stone Circle
near Bruff, County Limerick…
In 2013, I had the pleasure and privilege of meeting Tim Casey, farmer, owner of the land, and caretaker of Grange stone circle.
And we met again the following year! Such special moments are one if many reasons I’ve returned to Ireland again and again.
Learn more about the history and location of these ancient wonders at Megalithic Ireland.
The seemingly impossible Skellig Islands are not just one of my favorite places in Ireland, but one of my favorite places in the entire world… where medieval history meets big nature!
Getting there: Visiting the Skelligs is tightly regulated and possible only during the summer months. Access is possible only by chartering a fishing boat with a handful of certified skippers out of Portmagee. Make your reservations well in advance and reconfirm the day before, as stormy seas often make the journey too dangerous.
Let’s go!
Skellig Rocks seen from the Kerry Cliffs
Remote, vertical, teeming with wildlife and steeped in history, the Skelligs are a natural and cultural treasure unique in all the world.
Little Skellig is home to tens of thousands of Gannets…
while Skellig Michael is home to hundreds of comical and lovable Puffins.
Climb the six hundred feet to the top of Skellig Michael…
and be rewarded with intimate, privileged access to the almost perfectly preserved monastic site…
, which dates back to at least the eighth century.
Sunset over the Skellig Islands as seen from Beara
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17 thoughts on “Visions of Ireland”
I have read about the Skellig Island monastery ~ hard core! But surrounded by truly heavenly beauty…
I’ll never be strong enough to travel to see such things for myself, and don’t tend to intake the mainstream online versions, so your post was my first whirlwind Irish tour!
And of course I was right to trust you with my eyeballs’ Irish maidenhead, as you drew the very soul of the place out of its people and places, and right into the camera.
Deep thanks for your most kind words of appreciation, Ana… so poetically expressed, as always. It’s so very nice to know that sensitive humans like you exist… humans who see well past and through the surface of things.
That would be great Frank – it would be lovely to meet up. Nice to know England is beckoning again!
(For some reason the system isn’t letting me reply directly to your message …)
Thanks, as always, for the kind words of appreciation, Kath. It’s always great to hear from you. By the way, if the universe grants me enough time and energy, perhaps we can meet for a pint in the spring?! Cheers!
Thank you, Anita, for the most kind words of appreciation. It’s nice to know that my humble photo essay hit the mark and matters to a few sensitive humans like you. Cheers!
Thank YOU, Tracy, for appreciating my work. Having had the time, means, freedom, and health to see the world has been a great privilege… and one that has made me an infinitely better human being. All the best!
Thanks for sharing these amazing photos, Frank. It brought back memories of my time in Ireland last year. And I agree with you on the driving. I still say driving on those narrow, winding roads in Wexford, where my mum’s family lives, was the single most terrifying experience of my life.
Thanks for checking in and the most kind words, Michelle. Amazing how a single photograph can bring back so many memories… hopefully happy ones. Cheers!
I have read about the Skellig Island monastery ~ hard core! But surrounded by truly heavenly beauty…
I’ll never be strong enough to travel to see such things for myself, and don’t tend to intake the mainstream online versions, so your post was my first whirlwind Irish tour!
And of course I was right to trust you with my eyeballs’ Irish maidenhead, as you drew the very soul of the place out of its people and places, and right into the camera.
Thank you very much for it 🙏
Deep thanks for your most kind words of appreciation, Ana… so poetically expressed, as always. It’s so very nice to know that sensitive humans like you exist… humans who see well past and through the surface of things.
Sending you a big hug from ABQ.
Yes, we fall down when it comes to making good sense of the surface itself, but beneath it we’re total dead-eyes 😆
Well said, old friend. A toast to all who are not afraid to go deep!
That would be great Frank – it would be lovely to meet up. Nice to know England is beckoning again!
(For some reason the system isn’t letting me reply directly to your message …)
Here’s hoping! 🍻
Amazing, Frank! Happy holidays.
Thanks, Gerald. Sláinte Mhaith!
An absolutely wonderful view of Ireland captured and shared – thank you!
Thanks, as always, for the kind words of appreciation, Kath. It’s always great to hear from you. By the way, if the universe grants me enough time and energy, perhaps we can meet for a pint in the spring?! Cheers!
Such a wonderful, colorful, informative, and emotional overview of Ireland, Frank! Thank you so much for sharing the photos and information!!
Thank you, Anita, for the most kind words of appreciation. It’s nice to know that my humble photo essay hit the mark and matters to a few sensitive humans like you. Cheers!
An amazing collection of photos, memories, and experiences. Thank you so much for sharing this treasure trove, Frank!
Thank YOU, Tracy, for appreciating my work. Having had the time, means, freedom, and health to see the world has been a great privilege… and one that has made me an infinitely better human being. All the best!
Thanks for sharing these amazing photos, Frank. It brought back memories of my time in Ireland last year. And I agree with you on the driving. I still say driving on those narrow, winding roads in Wexford, where my mum’s family lives, was the single most terrifying experience of my life.
Thanks for checking in and the most kind words, Michelle. Amazing how a single photograph can bring back so many memories… hopefully happy ones. Cheers!
Yes. Very happy memories. Except for the driving part. 😂