The Ethiopian Red Terror was a large-scale campaign of intimidation, torture, and murder waged by The Derg, the Communist military junta that came to power after the deposition of Emperor Haile Selassie in 1974. Led by Mengistu Hel Mariam, and backed by the Soviets, the Derg ruled Ethiopia until 1987, and were responsible for the torture and execution of tens, if not hundreds of thousands, of university students, intellectuals, political opponents, and innocent citizens.
Just a short flight North from Addis Ababa over some of the most seemingly inhospitable terrain in the world is the one-of-a-kind-oasis called Lalibela. While the primary tourist attraction is the complex of ancient churches carved right out of the rock, a few other surprises are the real reasons to visit.
Arrival by Air
Asheten Hotel
Welcome to Asheten Hotel…
Only 200 Birr (~$8) per night!
Rock-hewn Churches
Unique Restaurant
May you be so fortunate to be the guest of honor in an authentic coffee ceremony
Don’t be afraid to help roast and grind the beans
A fellowship of Injera
A fellowship of coffee with delightful young people.
A trip to Lalibela could never be complete without enjoying some spaghetti and saying hello to the delightful Sisco at Unique Restaurant!
Torpido Tej House
Torpido Tej House, perhaps the coolest bar in the whole world!
Famous for its minstrel show and tej (honey wine)
welcomes a fun and friendly mix of locals and adventurous travelers.
Be prepared to be part of the show…
To do some Ethiopian shoulder dancing and to have the most uniquely enjoyable evening of your life!
My epic journey by minibus from Addis Ababa to Harar is the single most dangerous drive I’ve have ever taken in my life. Trapped with twenty other poor souls in a vehicle designed to carry twelve. Driving way too fast on over potholes with bald tires and squeaky brakes over narrow roads in steep terrain without guard rails. No food. No water. Qat chewers. Swerving to avoid roadblocks made of live animals. And bribing the police along the way… to name but a few. But oh, what an adventure! Let’s go!
Long-haul minibuses are the primary means of transportation between the cities and towns of Ethiopia…
Cozy!
Typical bus stop along the way.
Paper airplane attack! : )
Checkpoints are common and typically involve some bribery to keep going on bald tires
The ancient walled city of Harar, a UNESCO world heritage site, is a bustling centuries-old cultural and trading crossroads in Eastern Ethiopia.
The fastest way to get there is by air from Addis Ababa to Dire Dawa…
then taxi to the Dire Dawa bus station…
then a minibus ride from Dire Dawa to Harar.
Harar Skyline
Christian Church & Mosque
Harar Street Life
An Ethiopian feast, with Injera of course, with my old friend Mohammed Hassen.
Mohammed Suker, the coolest human I ever met. (He would die to protect me)
Hours-long electrical blackouts are a daily occurrence
Inside the old city walls
pop up typing services in three languages
Rainy Season is Coming
The Hyenas of Harar
After dark, visit the famous Hyena men if you dare…
Can my eyes get any more focused?
Amana Kids
Just one of the delightful boys and girls at Amana Kids Orphanage.
Nice World Taekwondo
Nice World Taekwondo–a shining example of what’s possible in a place where most people are just trying to survive the day…
Abiy Alemu (inspiring and dedicated teacher) left, Mohammed Hassen (generous founder and sponsor) right, and nineteen of the most disciplined and respectful young people you could ever hope to meet.
The quiet focus and discipline of these young people (boys and girls, Christian and Muslim) were impressive enough…
But seeing and feeling the focus and intensity as they put their skills into practice was one of the most thrilling things I’ve ever had the privilege to witness…
Located about 20 kilometers southeast of Harar, the village of Koremi (Koromi) is not a place you’ll find on Google maps or learn about on Wikipedia. Home of the Argoba people and their playful children who somehow survive in a remarkable land that time forgot…
Airer, about twenty miles south of Harar, is not a place you will find on Google maps.
Getting there is no small feat (Hint: There are no rental car agencies in Harar).
Until about ten years ago, it was temporarily occupied by the Sidetagna (displaced Somali people) who settled here in 2005 in order to escape the violence in the Ogaden region to the East.
Special Note: If the universe grants him enough time and energy, Frank hopes to share more about what happened here… at first joyous, but later heartbreaking. Enough said for now.
15 thoughts on “Postcards from Ethiopia: Where Antiquity, Modernity, and a Thousand Cultures Collide”
Ten’nestel’lin! All right! That was a surprise.
I lived in Addis for a year. I did my senior High School year there at the French Lycée… (Memories of Njera wot!)
Fantastic post, Frank. Thanks for the trip down Memory Lane.
(Now, if I may be so bold? Make your posts shorter, you’ll get more readership, and have more frequent posts… As an example, I have set myself a limit of 15 pix per post. Give or take. And I write around that… You should get more interaction, more comments which are the blood of blogging)
Be good, my friend.
These photos are amazing. Experiencing that kind of connection with the country and its people is a once-in-a-lifetime experience and truly priceless. Thank you for sharing with us, Frank.
Thanks so much for the most kind words, Edward. My trips to Africa have transformed me in too many ways to list all at one time. I hope to share some of these stories that figuratively saved my life someday. All the best, brother.
A remarkable cavalcade, Frank. It will take me a while to go through it, but, I am sure, not as long as it took to create it. A thoughtful creation and embrace of places and people.
So much to ponder—with amazement. Thank you for sharing these remarkable experiences. I look forward to learning about the dilapidated chair, the sticks (are they chat?), and other mysteries.
Thanks a million for checking in and your always thoughtful comments, Annie. My trips to Africa have transformed me in too many ways to list all at one time. I hope to someday share some of these experiences that figuratively saved my life.
Your journeys always amaze and inspire me, Frank! The photos each hold big stories to have experienced and been moved by! Thank you for sharing these memories and the beautiful people they highlight!
Thanks, as always, for your kind words of appreciation and capacity to see below the surface. My trips to Africa have transformed me in too many ways to list all at one time. I hope to someday share some of these experiences that figuratively saved my life. Sent with a warm hug.
I have no doubt that your trips have been transformative experiences, Frank! How different the world would be if others could see and experience the world, as you have done, and through your eyes! I believe in collective consciousness, and I think every transformative experience you have had, has entered that collective consciousness and is having an impact and making a difference! So, thank you!!! Hugs back, my friend!
Thanks so much for the most kind words, Anita. It’s been such a privilege to have the time and means to travel and learn so many lessons I could have learned no other way. And yes indeed… each new experience has gifted me clearer vision to see the common humanity that ought to unite, not divide, us all. Alas, we still have lots of work to do. Big hug!
Thanks a bunch for the words of appreciation, Michael. It’s been a great privilege to have had the opportunity to travel and learn from people and places that were “different” than me.
Ten’nestel’lin! All right! That was a surprise.
I lived in Addis for a year. I did my senior High School year there at the French Lycée… (Memories of Njera wot!)
Fantastic post, Frank. Thanks for the trip down Memory Lane.
(Now, if I may be so bold? Make your posts shorter, you’ll get more readership, and have more frequent posts… As an example, I have set myself a limit of 15 pix per post. Give or take. And I write around that… You should get more interaction, more comments which are the blood of blogging)
Be good, my friend.
selami ina āmeseginalehu.
👏🏻
These photos are amazing. Experiencing that kind of connection with the country and its people is a once-in-a-lifetime experience and truly priceless. Thank you for sharing with us, Frank.
Thanks so much for the most kind words, Edward. My trips to Africa have transformed me in too many ways to list all at one time. I hope to share some of these stories that figuratively saved my life someday. All the best, brother.
A remarkable cavalcade, Frank. It will take me a while to go through it, but, I am sure, not as long as it took to create it. A thoughtful creation and embrace of places and people.
Thanks, as always, for the very kind words and for seeing past the surface of things, Gerald. Wishing you the very best in writing and life.
So much to ponder—with amazement. Thank you for sharing these remarkable experiences. I look forward to learning about the dilapidated chair, the sticks (are they chat?), and other mysteries.
Peace, dear friend.
Thanks a million for checking in and your always thoughtful comments, Annie. My trips to Africa have transformed me in too many ways to list all at one time. I hope to someday share some of these experiences that figuratively saved my life.
Keep on keepin’ on, dear friend.
Your journeys always amaze and inspire me, Frank! The photos each hold big stories to have experienced and been moved by! Thank you for sharing these memories and the beautiful people they highlight!
Thanks, as always, for your kind words of appreciation and capacity to see below the surface. My trips to Africa have transformed me in too many ways to list all at one time. I hope to someday share some of these experiences that figuratively saved my life. Sent with a warm hug.
I have no doubt that your trips have been transformative experiences, Frank! How different the world would be if others could see and experience the world, as you have done, and through your eyes! I believe in collective consciousness, and I think every transformative experience you have had, has entered that collective consciousness and is having an impact and making a difference! So, thank you!!! Hugs back, my friend!
Thanks so much for the most kind words, Anita. It’s been such a privilege to have the time and means to travel and learn so many lessons I could have learned no other way. And yes indeed… each new experience has gifted me clearer vision to see the common humanity that ought to unite, not divide, us all. Alas, we still have lots of work to do. Big hug!
Great montage! You captured the cityscapes and culture beautifully.
I remember learning about the rock-hewn churches. They are a marvel!
Thanks a bunch for the words of appreciation, Michael. It’s been a great privilege to have had the opportunity to travel and learn from people and places that were “different” than me.